Ashtray-Style (posacenere) Pizza with Stuffed Crust: History and Evolution
Pizza is an undisputed symbol of Italian culinary tradition.
Over the centuries, it has undergone transformations and reinterpretations, adapting to trends, tastes, and gastronomic innovations.
Among the most original and spectacular variations of contemporary pizza, the ashtray-style pizza (or pizza with a “posacenere” look, often emphasized by the crust) stands out: an achievement of ingenuity and skill that combines tradition and creativity.
This pizza stands out not only for its intentionally slightly charred appearance, reminiscent of the patina of an old ashtray, but also for its characteristic stuffed crust, an addition that elevates the dining experience to new levels.
The Roots of Ashtray-Style Pizza
Ashtray-style pizza draws inspiration from a long tradition of rustic pizzas baked at very high temperatures in wood-fired ovens.
The uniqueness of its “carbonized” appearance is not the result of carelessness, but rather a tribute to an ancient cooking technique, where extreme heat and direct contact with the flame were essential elements for delivering smoky flavors and unique textures.
The origins of ashtray-style pizza can be traced back to culinary cross-pollination between Naples and neighboring regions.
Here, pizza makers experimented with more intense bakes, creating a darker, crispier crust that became the distinctive signature of their creations.
In recent decades, this technique has been rediscovered and reinterpreted, finding its place in gourmet pizzerias that aim to blend tradition with innovation.
The Evolution of the Stuffed Crust
The cornicione—the pizza’s rim or outer edge—has always received special attention in pizza-making tradition.
Historically, it was left empty, serving as a practical “handle” to eat pizza by hand.
But starting in the 1990s, the crust became the star thanks to the introduction of fillings.
Mozzarella, ricotta, cured meats, and vegetable creams are just some of the fillings that have transformed the rim from a simple structural element into a true explosion of flavor.
The idea of the stuffed crust spread widely in signature pizzerias, where attention to detail is essential.
In this context, the crust becomes not only a container of flavors, but also a design element that enhances the visual appeal of the pizza.
A Fusion of Tradition and Creativity
Ashtray-style pizza with stuffed crust is therefore the result of a fusion between traditional techniques and an innovative spirit.
Its “slightly charred” look is achieved through precise control of temperature and baking time, while the stuffed crust reflects attention to detail and the desire to offer a multisensory experience.
The smoky flavor of the crust pairs perfectly with the softness and richness of the filling, creating a contrast that stimulates the palate.
This pizza is not just food, but a work of art that tells a story of passion, dedication, and experimentation.
Pizzeria ‘A Tarantella’ in Milan: Excellence in Ashtray-Style Pizza
Among the pizzerias that have elevated ashtray-style pizza with stuffed crust to levels of excellence, Pizzeria Napoletana ‘A Tarantella’ in Milan stands out.
Located in the vibrant heart of the city, this pizzeria is renowned for its ability to reinterpret the classics of Neapolitan tradition with a modern and innovative touch.
A Quality-Driven Philosophy
‘A Tarantella’s success is built on a clear philosophy: ingredient quality is non-negotiable. Every pizza is made with selected flours, sourdough starter, and carefully sourced ingredients. The stuffed crust, for example, is filled with Campanian buffalo ricotta (DOP), artisanal cured meats, and freshly prepared creams—ensuring an authentic and irresistible taste.
Mastery of Baking
Mastery of baking is another defining element of ‘A Tarantella’. The wood-fired oven, the beating heart of the venue, is calibrated to reach temperatures above 450°C, essential for achieving the dark and smoky crust that characterizes ashtray-style pizza. Fast, even baking helps preserve the dough’s softness and enhances the flavors of the toppings.
A Menu Full of Surprises
In addition to the classic ashtray-style pizza, ‘A Tarantella’ offers variations that highlight the team’s creativity (See our pizza menu).
A Complete Culinary Experience
Eating at ‘A Tarantella’ is not just a meal—it’s a full culinary experience. The welcoming atmosphere, friendly staff, and attention to detail make every visit unique and memorable. Guests can also watch the pizzas being prepared thanks to the open kitchen, an element that emphasizes transparency and pride in the team’s work.
Ashtray-style pizza with stuffed crust is a brilliant example of how tradition can be reinterpreted to create something new and extraordinary.
Thanks to pizzerias like ‘A Tarantella’ in Milan, this variation is establishing itself as one of the most refined and creative expressions of Italian cuisine.
Each slice tells a story of passion, dedication, and love for food, offering a sensory journey that celebrates the best of our gastronomic tradition.
Where Was the Stuffed Crust Born?
The stuffed crust seems to have its roots in Naples, the homeland of pizza.
In the 1990s, Neapolitan pizza makers began experimenting with the pizza rim, making it not only a functional part but also a flavorful component.
One of the pioneers of this innovation was Pizzeria Ciro Salvo in Naples, which introduced the concept of filling the crust with ricotta to add softness and taste.
Stuffed crust, a culinary innovation that revolutionized the way people enjoy pizza, has roots closely tied to Italian tradition and inventiveness—although its success was later amplified internationally.
To understand where it was born, we need to look at the city of Naples, universally recognized as the cradle of pizza, and its crucial role in the evolution of this beloved dish.
Origin in Naples: Tradition and Innovation
Naples is the birthplace of classic pizza, and it’s where the roots of stuffed crust can be found.
In the past, the cornicione—the outer rim surrounding the base—was often considered a secondary part, although indispensable to the pizza’s structure.
However, in Neapolitan tradition, nothing goes to waste.
Over time, pizza makers began experimenting with fillings inside the crust, transforming it from a marginal element into a central component of the dish.
The idea likely arose from the combination of two fundamental principles: the creativity typical of Neapolitan pizza makers and the desire to offer a complete tasting experience in every part of the pizza.
The most common crust fillings at the beginning were ricotta, cooked ham, or small pieces of mozzarella.
International Spread and Recognition
While the initial idea of stuffed crust can be attributed to Naples, the concept later evolved and spread worldwide thanks to pizza’s global expansion.
In the 1980s and 1990s, major international pizza chains, such as Pizza Hut, began introducing stuffed-crust variations on their menus, using innovative ingredients like stretchy cheese or sausage.
This adaptation allowed stuffed crust to achieve global popularity, making it one of the most requested pizza variations, especially in the United States and other parts of the world.
A Dish in Constant Evolution
Although stuffed crust is now known internationally, the Neapolitan version retains a unique identity.
In Naples, attention is focused on fresh, local ingredients, with an emphasis on traditional techniques.
For example, fresh buffalo ricotta and pecorino are often preferred fillings in the city’s artisanal pizzerias.
Today, stuffed crust is no longer limited to classic ingredients.
Pizzerias around the world offer gourmet versions with fillings such as truffle, pistachio cream, smoked salmon, and even vegan options.
This ability to adapt to modern tastes and dietary needs has contributed to the continued success of this variation.
In summary, stuffed crust was born in Naples as a natural evolution of pizza-making tradition, driven by creativity and the desire to improve the gastronomic experience.
From Naples, the concept traveled and transformed, adapting to different cultural and taste contexts.
It remains, however, a symbol of Italian ingenuity—an example of how tradition and innovation can coexist harmoniously in the kitchen.