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test del cornicione per la vera pizza napoletana

The Cornicione Test: How to Spot Real Neapolitan Pizza

Posted in A Tarantella Recipes.

The cornicione test: in 30 seconds you’ll know if it’s real Neapolitan pizza (and where to try it in Milan)

You know that moment: you order a “Neapolitan-style” pizza, it arrives looking gorgeous… and then the first bite tells you something’s off.

Too dry. Too crunchy. Too “biscuit-like”.
Or yes, it’s soft… but rubbery, with no aroma, no lightness — nothing that makes you think: ok, this is the real deal.

Good news: you don’t need to be a pizzaiolo to figure it out. You just need a super quick test — 30 seconds, no tools — using only your eyes and hands, by checking the cornicione (the raised edge).

It’s the simplest way to tell the difference between a pizza that’s merely “Napoli-inspired” and a proper Neapolitan pizza.

And at the end, I’ll tell you where you can do this test in real life in Milan (spoiler: Lambrate area).

Actually, I’ll tell you now — and I’ll repeat it below: real Neapolitan pizza in Milan exists.

The 30-Second Cornicione Test (no tools — just eyes and hands)

1) The fold rule

Pick up a slice and gently fold it.

  • If it snaps like a cracker: it’s not Neapolitan (or it’s been baked/handled in a way that made it turn into something else).

  • If it stays soft without collapsing like a wet cloth: you’re on the right track.

Real Neapolitan pizza is flexible, not stiff. And it should never crunch like Roman pizza (which is great too — just a different style).

2) The air pockets: the “cloud” inside the edge

Look at the cornicione from the side. Do you see irregular bubbles and small pockets of air — a soft, airy structure?

That’s a strong sign of a well-made dough, properly fermented and matured — one that won’t turn into a brick as soon as it cools down.

If the edge is compact and uniform, like industrial bread… you’ve probably just met a Neapolitan look-alike.

3) The spotting: the right “freckles”

Neapolitan cornicione often has darker spots — not burnt black patches, but natural leopard spotting.

  • If it’s pale and flat: the oven temperature or heat management wasn’t right.

  • If it’s aggressively black: overbaked (often bitter).

The right spotting is a clue: it means the pizza hit a properly hot oven with a fast bake — without turning into ash.

4) The touch test: soft outside, “dry” inside

This one is easy: gently press the cornicione.

It should feel soft, elastic, and spring back.

It should not:

  • release moisture like a sponge

  • feel sticky on your fingers

  • stay flattened after you press it

The difference is here: a great cornicione is fluffy but not wet, light but not empty.

5) The smell: if it doesn’t smell like bread, something’s wrong

Bring the slice close and smell it.

It should smell of dough — bread, oven heat, grain — and then the toppings.

If all you smell is “toppings” and the edge is neutral, it often means the dough was treated as a support — not as half of the experience.

If it passes the test… why do some pizzas still feel heavy?

Because the cornicione is your first filter — but behind it are details you can’t see immediately:

  • dough management (hydration, mixing, timing)

  • baking and resting time

  • quality and quantity of ingredients

  • balance between base and toppings

You can have a pizza that looks great and is technically “correct”… but if it’s unbalanced, it can still feel heavy.

A proper Neapolitan pizza should make you want another bite, not a sofa.

The final test (worth more than a thousand posts): try it in real life

Next time you’re at a pizzeria, don’t start with “I like it / I don’t like it”. Start with the test.

And if you want to do it in Milan, you can try it at Pizzeria ’A Tarantella (Lambrate area). It’s a fun way to turn dinner into a real experience — because you’ll notice the details from the first look and the first bite.

👉 Want to do the cornicione test live? Visit: Pizzeria ’A Tarantella – Home (menu, booking, info).

Mini checklist to save (yes — really 30 seconds)

✅ the slice folds, it doesn’t snap
✅ cornicione with irregular air pockets
✅ natural spotting (not pale, not burnt)
✅ elastic to the touch, not wet or rubbery
✅ smells like bread/oven + ingredients

If you get 4 out of 5, you’re usually in very good hands.

Where it is and when to go (if you want to do it “now”)

To plan quickly: Via Guido Mazzali 5, 20132 Milan.
Hours: 12:15–14:45 and 19:15–23:00 (daily).
Phone: +39 02 2851 0895.